It is not always immediately obvious why some of the complications that find their way onto the mechanical wristwatch might be viewed as particularly indispensable, but for the air traveller, international corporate executive, news, finance or communications personnel of the 1960’s, a watch with a 24 hour function must have carried a certain useful appeal. Even now in the age of the smart phone, there is a certain something about the GMT/Navigator watch that pushes the right buttons. The earliest implementation of a 24 function in a Seiko wrist watch was the 6217-7000 World Timer which featured an inner rotating city bezel which allowed you to reference your current time zone with those in other parts of the world.
To be honest, I find those early 6217 World Timers somewhat aesthetically challenged, with the relatively compact dial sitting in the middle of a busy expanse of city bezel beneath a vast plexi-glass crystal. But the case does retain a certain early 60’s style in the detailing that I like, if not quite enough to feel any desire to acquire the complete package.
The second generation World Timer featured the 6117A movement, which is essentially a 6105A with the addition of a 24 hour wheel driven by the date driving wheel rather than a pinion mounted on the minute wheel in the 6217. Seiko expanded the range to include Navigator timers that used a rotating 24 hour bezel in place of the city bezel, a somewhat simpler implementation but one requiring a little more knowledge of time zone differences. By far the most desirable of these Navigator timers to my eyes is the 6117-8000 which features an external 24 hour bezel rather than internal.
The example that forms the basis of this latest entry I bought about two and a half years ago and it has since sat patiently waiting for me to get around to paying it some attention. In fact it’s been so long that somehow I seem to have acquired a second, that one missing its bezel but in the intervening period I’ve somewhat lost track of which one the bezel belonged to. It doesn’t much matter though as a few months after buying this one, I managed to find a new old stock bezel and so now I have a full complement of bezels to go with the two watches.
Our starting point then is the watch as received, complete with a rather weathered bezel, if possibly not the one originally fitted to this particular watch.
What strikes me immediately is that although this watch shows its age in the condition of the crystal and bezel, the hands and dial are close to immaculate. Looking to the rear reveals that it dates from May 1969
I always take it as a good sign when case backs are free from signs of watch case opener slippage, suggesting that if this has been serviced in the past, it was not performed by a complete klutz. That impression is reinforced once we gain access to the movement
While the rear of the case is certainly dirty, the movement looks very tidy indeed. A view of the dial unimpeded by the opaque crystal confirms its excellent condition:
There is even a suggestion of some life still in the 45 year old lume. The chapter ring lifts off the dial to reveal the dial spaced below:
With the dial off, we get a look at the one key difference between this movement and the 6105A used in the first generation 150m 6105 divers watch:
The 24 hour wheel sits atop of the regular hour wheel and is driven by the date driving wheel via the intermediate date wheel which sports an additional pinion on its upper side to mesh with the 24 hour wheel. As both the date driving wheel and 24 hour wheel rotate fully once per 24 hours, the logic of using the date wheel rather than the minute wheel to drive the GMT function seems obvious.
The one logistical issue deriving from the presence of the 24 hour wheel is one of clearance to the rear of the dial and for this reason the dial has a larger circular recess machined into its underside:
The movement’s a runner, although a touch ragged and losing about three minutes per day but it certainly looks in very decent cosmetic condition with the automatic mechanism removed:
The only minor fly in the ointment I discover when reassembling the movement after cleaning:
The pivot at the toothed end of the escape wheel is broken off. A replacement is easy enough to source from my parts bin and so the reassembly and oiling of the movement proceeded without further incident. Let’s pause a moment to take a look at the hour wheel, date driving wheel and intermediate wheel on the reassembled movement
before fitting the date dial, date dial guard and 24 hour wheel
The only remaining deviation from the routine is the fitting and alignment of the 24 hour hand, having first refitted the dial. This necessitated the purchase of a hand press with a large enough diameter to sit comfortably over the circumference of the 24 hour hand hole whilst having a large hole to clear the hour wheel tube.
Obviously it makes sense to fit the 24 hour hand at the point at which the date ticks over at midnight but then some care is required to make sure that the 24 hour hand is properly synchronized with the hour hand on its journey around the dial. There is a degree of play evident and my first attempt at aligning the hour and 24 hour hands at 16.00
resulted in the 24 hour hand lagging ever so slightly the following day as it passed the mid-day point. Removal and refitting seems to have sorted the problem but I’m not completely convinced that the alignment is perfect at every point on its 24 hour journey. I suspect some small degree of non-linearity in the gearing but I’ve got it more than well-enough aligned to satisfy the obsessive compulsive freak in me.
The rest is plain sailing. A clean case and fresh armoured acrylic crystal
some fresh gaskets for the crown and case back and in slips the serviced movement
for a quick spin before refitting the automatic winding mechanism
Bruno Portugal Gomes said:
Hey Martin, this is very nice, I didn’t know about this model.
Thank you so much for again telling me something new on vintage Seiko!
No problem – glad you like it!
Another brilliant example of resurrection! Congrats Martin, I hope you enjoy wearing it.
Absolutely beautiful! I love your work Martin keep up the good work. Any 6105 mods or posts coming up by any chance?
Thanks! I have a very nice 6105-8110 waiting in the wings and will hopefully get to that soon but no plans at the moment for any 6105 mods.
Cool, looking forward to seeing it. I am currently working on a 6105 mod myself with a 6309 7040 scubapro dial. I have seen from your other mods with the 6309 dial and 6306a movement so I was wondering is there any other movement that I can use other than the 6306a? thx
Peter White said:
Ooohhh looking forward to the 6105 8110, im currently bringing one back to life, crown is away with a forum member hopfully getting the remains of the stem drilled out, fingers crossed.
Martin, I enjoyed your pictures and technical explanations for
your 6117-8000 Nav Timer. I had mine recently overhauled and
it turned out as impressive looking and performing as
when purchased in Saigon in 1969. I hope to find another one to have
as a backup.
Colonel (USAF, Ret) Joe Panza said:
Jim, where did you have your Nav Timer overhauled and what is the cost if you don’t mind me asking.
Colonel (USAF, Ret) Joe Panza said:
I have a 6117 8000 Nav Timer……mine was purchased in 1968 while I was in Vietnam – I believe one of my squadron mates bought it for me in Japan while on R&R. If my memory serves me, I believe I paid $19.00. It’s never been serviced, runs and keeps time perfectly. (unlike my Cartier Santos!)
Augustin Simat said:
do you wish to sell it? hi!
This one flew the nest earlier this year I’m afraid.
Hello Martin, very nice indeed 🙂 I have my dads old 6117-8000 and I am looking for a bezel ring! Any chance that you know where I could source one?
I am afraid not. I bought mine off Ebay but that seller is sold out. You’ll just have to keep your eyes peeled and exercise a considerable degree of patience!
Jimmie Monsoor Watch purchased @ 1990. Not used for years and need instructions. PH 775 847 2062. said:
Where can i download use instructions for 6117 8000?
I don’t know where you might find instructions but operation of this watch is straightforward. The 24 hour hand is not independently settable and so with the bezel aligned with the lume pip at 12, the 24 hr hand will indicate the 24 hour time on the bezel at your current location. If you want to know the time in a different time zone then you just turn the bezel anticlockwise for timezones ahead of you or clockwise for zones behind you. Date quickset, pull the crown one click out; timesetting, two clicks out. That’s about it.
Clyde B O'Neill said:
Although I would like to have an Instruction Manual, I could get along without it if someone could tell me how to make my 6117-8000 run. Is it battery powered? Can it be wound up? This watch has been in my jewel box since I quit flying and I’ve had it since the 60’s.
richard cawood said:
Hello Martin, Have recently purchased a 6105 and a 1969 navigator (awaiting arival).What tools are needed to do what you do. Researched the 6105 yesterday, you were there, and now today. Feel like the lion, talk me out of this. Love what you do. Thanks, Rick
Rick – if the two watches you’ve bought are in any way nice, I’d strongly recommend you reserve any first tentative steps at footling around for something more disposable! It takes quite a bit of practice to get a feel for how to proceed and it is all too easy to make a hash of it. On a junker, mistakes can be taken on the chin as all part of the learning experience. As for tools, the basic starting point has to be some jeweller’s screwdrivers, a couple of pairs of fine tweezers, a case back opener, a watch makers knife, watchmaker’s putty, movement holders, covered trays for parts, hand removers, hand press and so on and so forth. Good luck!
Giles Branch said:
Hello, I greatly enjoy each and every one of your write ups. Thank you.
Would you happen to know if the navigator bezel fits the 6217 diver?
Thank you Giles. Although I’ve not tried it, I am sure the Navigator bezel will not fit the 62MAS. Your only hope on that front is to try to find one of a number of Swiss divers watches from the ’60’s that used the same bezel. In some examples, the inserts are also an almost perfect match. I have one tucked away for a rainy day 🙂
Augustin Simat said:
Interested in one! Please let meknow if there is one for sale!
Just purchased this exact model. Thank you for the write up and useful information.
Just picked up a NOS bezel with wire retainer and nylon gasket for the 6117-8000.
The wire retainer was the curve-type and was supplied tightly wound, too tight to fit inside the bezel. After opening it up a bit so it would fit inside the bezel I just couldn’t get the bezel to pop on.
I ended up bending it back to supplied shape and fitting it over the case groove, pushed the bezel over 2 of the 3 protruding bends and with a small screwdriver pushed the last bend in while squeezing the bezel over it.
I’ve always just fitted the spring to the back of the bezel and popped it on to the case but it just wasnt cooperating ths time.
I’m not happy with the action when turning the bezel, feels a bit rough and tight, so may have to remove and sort it out before reattaching the bezel once more.
With the wire retainer, I always mount them first in the groove on the case and then press the turning ring on, using a screwdriver or other fine implement to push in the spring to ease the process. Assuming you have the correct spring, then the only advice I can offer is to make sure everything is as clean as possible before fitting and to make sure there are no rough edges on the case or spring to impede the action of the bezel. In my experience though, the feel of these bezels is not especially refined and they can feel a bit rough sometimes.
Phil Maurer said:
I recently picked one of these up and I have a question on the bezel. Mine is a friction bezel, should it have a ratchet? if not can you make it a ratchet from the diving variant of this watch?
Neither the GMT nor diver version of this watch have a ratchet bezel. Both are friction and neither offer any realistic chance to convert to a ratchet.
Clyde, in answer to your reply to Jimmie, your watch has an automatic mechanical movement powered by a mechanical spring. If the movement is in good order then you should be able to get it running by swirling it around in a circular motion for a minute or so to get the rotor swinging about and then setting the time. That should be enough to get it started at which point strap it to your wrist and wear it for a few hours to build up the power reserve in the mainspring.
If none of that works, then it is likely that your watch needs a service along the lines of that described in this entry.
A Kwatra said:
I’ve been looking for a 6117-8000 to add to my collection, but given the overwhelming amount of 6117-6410s being offered, haven’t been able to find one.
Would you be willing to consider selling this piece or trading it?
That particular watch flew the coop some time ago I’m afraid. Sorry!
A Kwatra said:
Upon reading earlier replies, I see this piece already sold. Would you be able to put me in touch with the buyer such that I could inquire if he/she would be interested in a transaction
I sold the watch through a watch forum and have lost track of who the buyer was. These watches do still pop up from time to time – you just have to be patient!
I recently bought a 6117 6400 world timer and realized that the teeth of the inner ring, which is required for the rotation of the dial ring with the city names, are almost all gone. Would you know where I could find a replacement for such a ring (the geared one)? I’ve searched on the bay but in vain. Does it by chance come with the dial ring with the city names as a one-thing replacement part? (It doesn’t seem so from the pics posted by sellers, though). Thank you very much for you kind help.
A quick look at schillachi61’s Ebay shop reveals a black dial place name dial for for 6117-6010 and a gold one for 6117-6409. I would guess that the latter may be compatible with your watch if you can live with an alternative colour to the original. I have not worked on this model before and so am not familiar with the construction of the dial and whether or not the gear is integrated or a separate part. You could email the seller on Ebay to ask before placing your bid perhaps. My casing parts guide suggests the part numbers for the place name dial variations for 6117-6400 are 86039931, 86039932 and 86039933. Good luck!
Thanks a million Martin for your superfast reply!!
I bought the watch knowing that the internal dial with the city names was not working with the hope that it was an easy fix. But alas, after opening the watch, I realized that the dial ring with the city names is set in motion by another ring, which lies underneath, and which is in gear with the winding stem. So, in fact the gear is in a separate part (ring). And the bad news is that this separate part appears to be almost impossible to find!
I’ll check out the ref numbers, you very kindly gave me, for whether there is a possible replacement.
Another possibility, I was thinking of, would be to somehow re-cast the geared ring by preparing a mold with the damaged ring and using some kind of liquid plastic resin (any suggestions on what I could use?). The problem is that the ring looks quite bad (it has less teeth than an 100-year-old grandpa…), so I fear this might turn out to be an impossible feat.
Thanks again for your tips!!
The only suggestion I can offer for manufacturing the geared ring would be 3D-printing. There is someone in Australia (vintagetimeaustralia) making Seiko movement holders using a 3-D printer but I have no idea what the costs might be for a one-off. If indeed these parts are in short supply, then there may be sufficient demand for a run.
Camden Beinhaker said:
Hey. Mind if I ask how you got a new bezel for this project. I’m in the middle of restoring one myself and need a new bezel. Thanks
Hi Camden, I just found one from a seller on eBay in the UK. He had a few for sale at the time but all long gone now. Best just to keep an eye out and sooner or later one may pop up.
Camden Beinhaker said:
Follow up on the search for a bezel. One of the watchmen in my town was able to source out a NOS bezel and bezel ring for $42! So excited to start my project!!!
Camden, that’s great! Glad you were able to find what you needed.
Bob Poole said:
I happen to own a Seiko 6117-8000 and just stumbled on to this web site by accident. I have owned the watch since new (1968?) as I purchased it in HKG for around $16,00 at the time. Recently serviced and looks like new. Has the SS bracelet with the small links. What would the value of this watch be to a collector?
It is always very nice to hear from people who have owned these old watches from the get go. As to value, that of course would depend on all sorts of factors, most pertinently condition and degree of originality. It is also worth noting that vintage watch prices seem to be going a bit bananas at the moment. If I was to stick my neck out, I’d say an excellent 6117-8000 might be worth £400 to £450 and upwards on a good day. I sold mine two years ago for a good bit less than that but recent Ebay sales suggest bananas is the correct characterisation of current pricing!
I know this article is 2 years old, but I figured it’s worth a try. I’ve inherited my grandfathers Seiko 6117-8000. It still ticks, but the 24hr bezel is stuck and does not move. Any idea what would cause this? I’m only just starting in getting into watches…
Almost certainly, the problem is simply dirt. Over the years, the gap between bezel and case will attract dirt and if not regularly cleaned will eventually just jam up. It is easily sorted though by removing the bezel, thoroughly cleaning bezel and case and refitting. I hope that helps.
Bob Poole said:
I don’t have a simple answer but I suspect that it’s just dirty underneath the bezel. Might try soaking it in warm water as it is waterproof. If not that then take it to a watchmaker and have him look at it. The watch is certainly worth saving so you might have it service at the same time or send it back to the Seiko service center in New Jersy and have them go through it
I’d be slightly wary of soaking a 45 year old watch in water unless you are very confident of its water-tightness. It might however be possible to try to manually work some of the dirt free with pegwood or other implement that won’t mark the case or bezel. Easier perhaps though to simply remove the bezel and deal with the dirt directly.
Bob Poole said:
Probably good advice. Send it to Seiko and let them service the watch.
Craig Howington said:
Very interesting write up! I have a question, as I have acquired a 6117-8000 I bought it on a local website for $50.00 . I just thought it was a nice looking watch from the 60’s , I had no idea what a great watch I purchased! The watch works, but if I don’t wear it all the time it stops working. Is this normal? I see that there is a small battery looking device inside, where the positive and negative symbols are, is this replaceable? I bought a NOS crystal for it, and want to change it out, so if this is some type of battery, I’d like to change them at the same time. Thanks in advance for your help answering my question!
Hi Craig, your watch is a mechanical watch whose power derives from a mainspring which must be wound in order to generate the power. Some watches will require the wearer to manually wind power into the mainspring via the crown whilst others, such as your watch, work by winding in power via a winding weight whose motion derives from the movement of your wrist in day to day wear. Some automatic watches of this type also allow the wearer to wind power in via the crown but on your watch this facility is missing. So, all your watch requires in order to run is for you to wear it and for your activity whilst doing so to be such that sufficient power feeds into the mainspring during the day to power the watch through the night until you strap it on again the following day. Most watches of this type will have sufficient power wound in during the day to last at least another 24 hours before stopping again – some will last 40 hours or more.
The device you observed in your watch is most likely the balance which is the device that regulates the flow of power from the mainspring to the gear train. The + and – indicators relate to how you can regulate the timekeeping of the watch to speed it up or slow it down as appropriate. My advice would be to steer well clear of interfering with the balance – one slip and it is curtains for the watch!
By the way, if your watch is in good shape, then you paid a very good price for it!
Craig Howington said:
Hi Martin, thank you for the information! Yes the watch is in good shape, the crystal is pretty scratched up, as is the back plate, which is normal for a watch of this age. Luckily there seems to be plenty of replacement NOS parts available. I am going to replace the crystal, is a new gasket a must? I would think so with it’s age, I’ve been looking on eBay for one, but can’t seem to find one, any chance you have a lead on one? Also my watch was made in April of 68, is there a way to find what bracelets were available for this era, whereas mine is not an original Seiko. Thanks again in advance for your help!
The crystal is a compression fit acrylic with a tension ring and so no gasket required. You would be well advised to replace both case back and crown gaskets though. These watches were available with a bracelet at the time, as shown in the promotion photo in the article. I have no suggestions of where you might find one other than trawling eBay or putting out a WTB on one of the watch forums. Good luck!
Phil Smyrk said:
Hi there Martin, great site. I have the 6117 6410 and was wondering what the correct procedure is when replacing the hands on it, is it the same way as you have shown on this 8000? Once I have established where the minute hand trips the date I then will know where to place both the hour and minute, but firstly where do I place the GMT hand, can it be just a random position on the dial since the bezel is adjustable or is there more to it
Thanks in anticipation
The GMT hand has to synchronise with the hour hand, with both then synchronised with the date change at midnight. I achieved this by first fitting the GMT aligned to 12 at the date changeover point. Once this is achieved you can then fit the hour hand to align with one of the hour markers when the GMT hand is aligned at the appropriate 24 hour time mark. In my case, I aligned the hour hand at the 4 o’clock marker when the GMT hand was aligned with 16.00 hours (i.e. the 8 marker). Alternatively, you could just align both at the 12 marker in the first place but I found that the slight play meant that the two were ever so slightly out and so had to try again.
The assumption is that the GMT hand will display the 24 hour time at your present location with the bezel pip aligned to the 12 marker. You then rotate the bezel to allow you to see the time in different time zones.
Phil Smyrk said:
Thanks so much
norbert grahl said:
HI, my name is norbert grahl:german,ex cpt.dlh. My Seiko 6117-8000 gave up
running approx. 2 month ago. I asking german watchmakers and I was told: irreparable.
This watch is a gift of one of the last navigators on b707. I am around 70 years old, the wristwatch was with me aboout 50 years:living / flying / diving / sauna etc./ any help?
if so: see contact
Hi Norbert, you may have seen in my comments elsewhere on this site that I am not a professional watchmaker and so not offer services. I will contact you offline with one or two recommendations.
Bob Poole said:
Your best bet would be to mail it to the Seiko Service Center in New Jersey. if anyone can restore it to its former glory, these are the folks that can do it. Might be some Seiko Service Center closer to you than one in the US, but this is the one I have used in he past.
I think Norbert is based in Germany and I am sure there are folk closer to home who may be able to help him. I have contacted him offline with a recommendation but thanks for the suggestion.
Congrats on a fantastic website! Can I ask, do you know the part number for the bezel gasket? Can you use any generic gasket? Do you even need a gasket? Thanks! Don
Thank you. There is no bezel gasket on the model, just a spring to secure the bezel to the case.
Thanks Martin. I removed the bezel on mine and the groove on the case was filled with hard gunk. I just assumed it was a gasket to help lubricate the spring. Do you put silicone grease down to help with lubrication?
I don’t think they are intended to be lubricated. You just need to clean out the gunk and refit.
Chan kok wing said:
Hi Martin,I got one here .Where can I get a
Service and parts change
That depends on where you are based. I can suggest one or two people who could service your watch in the UK, USA or Australia but I am not really in a position to do more than that. I don’t do service work for other people myself, I’m afraid.
George N said:
Congratulation for the fantastic job and website. I am following you for some time now.
My 6117-8000 needs service as it is losing more than a minute per day. I am thinking of a crazy overhauling as i am obsessed to accuracy. To change the movement with a GS 6155 one.
What is your opinion. Is the plan doable?
Thanks and continue the good work
Hello George. It is good to hear that you enjoy the blog. I do not see any reason why the 24 hour wheel plus intermediate wheel from the 6117 could not be used with a 6155. The main problem you are likely to encounter is having sufficient space to accommodate the thicker winding weight (see my trials and tribulations with my high beat 6105). The other potential obstacle is the cost of sourcing a 6155. Even tatty examples seem to fetch quite strong money these days).
George N said:
Hello Martin. I am still considering the project with the high beat navigator. Do you have any suggestions for case backs to use for it? Does a case back from 7548-7000, that you use on the 6105, fit to the Navigator? Thanks
I can’t say without trying. I ended up with my solution as a result of much trial and error and so if you decide to try your project, you will have to go through the same process. Good luck!
Chan kok wing said:
Where can l my NV timer for the overhaul
That depends on where you live. There are a number of options in the UK and USA who specialise or have experience in servicing vintage Seiko watches. Richard Askham and Duncan Hewitt in the UK spring to mind as does Spencer Klein in the US. You could also give Vintage Time Australia a try.
Chan Kok Wing said:
Thanks for the reply, please advise where can I find the replacement of the chapter ring and alternative hour and minute hands. Cheers
Probably your best bet is to trawl eBay or your nearest watch materials house. Or Yahoo Japan.
I’ve recently come across a nice 6117-8000 that is in good cosmetic condition. Unfortunately it seems to start and stop intermittently while running and I am keen on sending it out for a service.
Being based in the U.S. I have read mixed reviews about the Seiko Service Center in NJ, and was wondering if you might have had any experience working with them, or be able to suggest someone who might be able to help?
Thanks very much!
Hi Dave, in the U.S. I would suggest you approach Spencer Klein. He is a vintage Seiko specialist based in Colorado and is well-regarded. I understand however that he has quite a long waiting list and may have suspended taking on new work to clear his backlog. Worth trying to contact him though. I believe his website is kleinvintagewatch.com.
Mike S. said:
Excellent article as always. I know this post was written quite a while ago, but I’m wondering if you happen to remember the diameter of the larger hand set tool you used for the GMT hand. I have a 6117 movement incoming for a long-standing project of mine and it just occurred to me that the largest one I have currently is 1.50mm…will that work? Thanks!
Thanks Mike. The tool I used is a double-ended 1.5 & 2.0 and I presume I must have used the 2.0 end. Good luck with your project!
Mike S. said:
That’s what I suspected…internet to the rescue! Thanks again.
Bob Poole said:
I own one of the 6117-8000 Navigator watches that I want to sell. Does anyone have any experience with selling this model watch other than Ebay? My watch appears as new for the most part.
On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 12:36 PM Adventures in Amateur Watch Fettling wrote:
> Mike S. commented: “That’s what I suspected…internet to the rescue! > Thanks again.” >
I sold the example described in this post via a watch forum sales corner. If you are not already an active member of any watch fora then you may find it difficult to get traction that way because it is often the case that you need to have established some credentials as a trust-worthy person first.
You may well realise more through eBay but of course there are fees and risks associated with that option. Not much else to suggest I am afraid other than Facebook groups or Instagram but I have no idea how easy it is to sell through those routes. Prices always seem a bit bonkers there from what I’ve seen.
mirel porutiu said:
Hi Martin, I found your post while looking for a steel outer bezel for a Seiko I inherited from by grandfather. It is a Seiko, just like the one your post is about, and I was wondering if you maybe can help me; the watch is running, but barely, the glass is cracked, the second hand is missing, the rubber gasket is also missing, and there is a problem with the winding stem.
And of course the steel outer bezel needs to be purchased from one place or another. Could you maybe guide me to where I can find those things, or maybe, just maybe help me revive this watch, which ist has enormous sentimental value to me (of course I am willing to pay for your services if this is a possibilite). Thanks in advance and best regards, Mirel.
First of all, as you will see if you look at the About tab, I do not take in work at all. I am just an amateur and only work on my own watches – sorry!
As to your question about parts, these may be sourced from a variety of places such as watch materials houses (such as Cousins in the UK, Jules Borel in the US, Boley in Germany), eBay (of course!) and if you are prepared to venture into the domestic Japanese marketplace, then Yahoo Japan. There are quite a few smaller parts suppliers dotted around too. The best thing to do is to identify the part numbers for the bits you need and then start searching eBay, Google, parts houses and so on. Some of these you will struggle to find (the bezel for example) and so you may need to be prepared to play the long game. One other option is to buy a second parts watch that has what you want but problems in other areas. However, the 6117-8000 has greatly increased in value and you may not find that even poor examples can be found cheaply. Good luck!
mirel porutiu said:
Hello again, I finnaly found a bezel, but I only have one more question, hope you can help. Is there a ring under the bezel and the case, and if there is do you have any ideea the part number, or any ring that will fit will do ? Thanks a lot in advance.
There is a retaining spring that sits inside the bezel and locates into the groove around the crystal aperture in the case. I am away from home at the moment and don’t have access to my parts lists. Glad you found the part!
mirel porutiu said:
thanks, but I am not refearing to the retaining spring. I saw some other models with a plastic ) I think ) yellow ring sitting on the case, and under the bezel…
here is a link:
Transition state theory: A brace of sports divers from
This is also one of your builds and there is a picture with the case, retaining ring, the bezel and a ring…..
Thanks again, and I apologise if I am too persistent/annoying
Ah, ok, you mean the nylon ring. I do not know the part number I’m afraid. My casing parts book makes no reference to it but I have a vague memory that Vintage Time Australia may have had a supply made for the 6105-8000. That may not be the correct size but worth taking a look.
Great build Martin!
I have 2 6117-8000’s, one is a 68 the other a 69 model, both dated March.
I also have June 1970 6117-6410 which I believe is s 6117B movement with a hacking feature.
I recently put it on my wrist, after a couple years of hibernation, and noticed it’s hacking in both positions 2 & 3, date quick-set and time-set positions.
I’m certain it shouldn’t hack in the date quick-set position.
Any thoughts what could be causing this?
I wonder if the hacking lever is bent and makes contact with the balance wheel prematurely as a result?
Yes that’s what I thought after reviewing some your hacking Seiko builds.
Guess I’ll have to tear into it.
Hi – this is a bit late, but I thought I would try.
Do you ever relume dials or chapter rings like this? Do you feel that it somehow interferes with the historic authenticity?
Just curious, because I tend to use my vintage watches as daily wear items, and practicality matters. And that is how they were intended to be used.
I tend to leave the scratches that they came with – that s part of the history of that particular watch. But it doesn’t get in the way of practicality. Lume is different – reluming brings the watch back to where it was when from the factory, but you have to scrape off the old material (carefully!), destroying some of the history.
Kind of like replacing old 6V filament vintage motorcycle headlights with modern xenon bulbs.
Hi Brian, I have no qualms reluming when the lume has blackened with mold or otherwise degraded to the point that it upsets the aesthetic but I would not relume if the lume was otherwise in good condition. You will see a number of examples in the blog where I have performed relumes, including one 6105 and one 62mas. I would caution you though to think very hard about the merits of going down that path because many professional relumes are poorly executed and you may end up with a ruined dial.